Embroidered letter
Object name
Made for
Date made
1901-1910
Place made
Description
Zardozi embroidered letter addressed to King Edward VII.
Content description
Rectangular Indian zardozi goldwork formal embroidered letter, with faded text, addressed to King Edward VII. This object is probably a gift from an Indian Maharajah or high level official. The letter's base is a cream silk and the embroidery is worked in bullion, smooth purl, check, spangles, plate, and silk thread. The check-style angular coiled wire is known as nakshi, chalak, chaupahal, or ghokri in zardozi, while spangles are called chakri. Stitches include couching over metal thread, looped cutwork, cutwork over padding, flat cutwork, S-ing, and applied spangles. The extensive goldwork bordering the text area includes bold but intricate floral and foliage trailing designs typical of zardozi work, with four large rosette flowers at each corner and scrolling tendrils with trefoils around the British royal coat of arms with its lion and unicorn supporters.
The centre of the letter would have originally featured a printed text addressed to Edward VII, but this has faded and only some words are visible. The portions that can be seen read, 'His most gracious majesty Edward VII. By the grace of god, king of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland (?) defender of the realm (?) and Emperor (?) of India. - - - - - - occasion, the announcement of - - -- - coronation (?) (?) India - - - - we the residents of the - - - -- Your Majesty - -- - - -- History that India was once great and - - - - from that greatness when all who - - -- - - linked it to the - - - - -for its regeneration and -- -- peace and prosperity followed - - - - dependancy now enjoys blessings which - - - - the last ten centuries. Education - - - - to rich and poor alike has been - - - - -which the - - --- gratefulness and has been the - - - - uplifting India from the - - -- by your - - - -has been bequeathed to worthy successors - - - - - will be by your - - - - and the United Kingdom - - - -for Your Majesty's and for the Queen Empress'.
Three similar address panels are held by The Royal Collection Trust (RCIN 42223, RCIN 42228, RCIN 42274), all presented to Queen Victoria in 1897 on her Diamond Jubilee. Two of these are from Sitapur District and another from Hardoi District, both in Oudh, a former Mughal province in northern India now part of Uttar Pradesh. All three have floral motifs using gold thread and sequins on a cream silk ground with chevron gold braid edging. Two are headed with the British royal arms and supporters, and one from Sitapur includes small goldwork rosettes. The RCT also has an address pouch which was presented to Edward VII in Benares, also in Uttar Pradesh (RCIN 11430). This pouch has a very similar style of zardozi work to this example, including looped purls, closely worked use of overlapping spangles, and a small trefoil motif similar to those on the RSN letter. Zardozi (literally zar ‘gold’ dozi ‘work’) developed from the Persian influenced Mughal period in India (1586-1827) when formal workshops were established and was particularly popular in court society in the Uttar Pradesh area of northern India.
Edward VII carried out a four month long tour in 1875-6 while he was Prince of Wales in order to establish personal links between the British Monarchy and India. During the tour Edward adopted formal Indian court practices derived from the Mughal tradition of presentation and gifts, building an effective relationship with over 90 rulers. King Edward VII ruled as King of the United Kingdom and the British Dominions, and Emperor of India from 1901 to 1910, placing this object within that specific decade.
The centre of the letter would have originally featured a printed text addressed to Edward VII, but this has faded and only some words are visible. The portions that can be seen read, 'His most gracious majesty Edward VII. By the grace of god, king of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland (?) defender of the realm (?) and Emperor (?) of India. - - - - - - occasion, the announcement of - - -- - coronation (?) (?) India - - - - we the residents of the - - - -- Your Majesty - -- - - -- History that India was once great and - - - - from that greatness when all who - - -- - - linked it to the - - - - -for its regeneration and -- -- peace and prosperity followed - - - - dependancy now enjoys blessings which - - - - the last ten centuries. Education - - - - to rich and poor alike has been - - - - -which the - - --- gratefulness and has been the - - - - uplifting India from the - - -- by your - - - -has been bequeathed to worthy successors - - - - - will be by your - - - - and the United Kingdom - - - -for Your Majesty's and for the Queen Empress'.
Three similar address panels are held by The Royal Collection Trust (RCIN 42223, RCIN 42228, RCIN 42274), all presented to Queen Victoria in 1897 on her Diamond Jubilee. Two of these are from Sitapur District and another from Hardoi District, both in Oudh, a former Mughal province in northern India now part of Uttar Pradesh. All three have floral motifs using gold thread and sequins on a cream silk ground with chevron gold braid edging. Two are headed with the British royal arms and supporters, and one from Sitapur includes small goldwork rosettes. The RCT also has an address pouch which was presented to Edward VII in Benares, also in Uttar Pradesh (RCIN 11430). This pouch has a very similar style of zardozi work to this example, including looped purls, closely worked use of overlapping spangles, and a small trefoil motif similar to those on the RSN letter. Zardozi (literally zar ‘gold’ dozi ‘work’) developed from the Persian influenced Mughal period in India (1586-1827) when formal workshops were established and was particularly popular in court society in the Uttar Pradesh area of northern India.
Edward VII carried out a four month long tour in 1875-6 while he was Prince of Wales in order to establish personal links between the British Monarchy and India. During the tour Edward adopted formal Indian court practices derived from the Mughal tradition of presentation and gifts, building an effective relationship with over 90 rulers. King Edward VII ruled as King of the United Kingdom and the British Dominions, and Emperor of India from 1901 to 1910, placing this object within that specific decade.
Dimensions
width: 35cm
length: 58cm
length: 58cm
Materials
Stitches
Basketweave (goldwork) 
Couching in a circle (goldwork)
S-ing (goldwork)
Cutwork purls over soft string
Flat cutwork (goldwork)
Straight stitch
Couching in a circle (goldwork)
S-ing (goldwork)
Cutwork purls over soft string
Flat cutwork (goldwork)
Straight stitch
Techniques
Motifs
Catalogue number
RSN.1575
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