COL.2018.69 | RSN Collection & Archive

Sampler

Beryl Penson

Royal School of Needlework

Circa 1935 to 1940

London

Crewelwork sampler worked by Royal School of Needlework diploma student Beryl Penson, likely in the late 1930s.

A crewelwork sampler worked by Beryl Penson while a diploma student at the Royal School of Needlework. This four-part design was used until the last few years of the RSN's Training School Diploma. This was likely worked in the late 1930s. The piece is embroidered on linen and is divided into four groups of motifs. The piece is still attached by tacking stitches to its black paper mount, now faded.

This sampler can be oriented in any number of ways. The description follows the orientation seen in the primary photograph of the object. In the top left corner the motifs are stylised leaves and a pink flower. The leaves and flower are worked in long and short stitches, with the thicker stems worked in detached chain stitches. The tendrils are worked in stem stitch. The pointed centre of the flower in green is created using French knots. The cup of the acorn is embroidered in bullion knots, while detached chain stitch is used around the outside of the leaves. All of this quadrant is worked in wool threads. The leaves are very reminiscent of late 17th and early 18th-century crewelwork in shape and colour.

In the top right quadrant are a variety of standalone flower and leaf motifs. They are worked in a combination of wool and cotton thread. The outlines of the flowers are worked in loop stitches. French knots, cloud filling, split, and couching stitches are also used for the flower petals and leaf interiors.

The bottom left quadrant has a variety of motifs, including a bird whose body is worked in wool in long and short stitch and outlined in stem stitch. The wings are worked in a form of feather stitch. The butterfly consists of long and short stitch with stem stitch for the antennae. The bottom wings feature couched threads in contrasting colours, giving a basketweave effect. The strawberries and pomegranates are executed in a similar way to the butterfly wings, also resulting in a basketweave effect. The acorn cup is worked in cloud filling stitch, while the top of the acorn uses long and short stitch couched across the centre in a contrasting coloured wool. This wool is also used to outline the acorn using split stitch. The central leaf is worked with long stitches couched down, giving a brick effect. The flowers are made of feather stitch and the thick stem is in chain stitch. The long pointed pale brown leaves are worked in satin stitch, with the veins of couched dark brown wool.

The fourth quadrant on the bottom right features a stylised leaf, flower, stem, and pomegranate fruit. These are all worked in wool threads in long and short stitch. The centre of the flower is embroidered in French knots. The leaves are worked in feather stitch and the tendrils are worked in chain stitch. These motifs, too, are reminiscent of early modern crewelwork.

Records show that Beryl Penson was born in Greater London in 1909. She shortly thereafter moved with her family to Bournemouth but seems to have returned to London by 1937, when she is listed as living in Lancaster Gate. It is probable that she was attending the Royal School of Needlework at this time. Family records suggest she was a diploma student. She seems to have lived in London until approximately 1940. She passed away in Bournemouth in 1966. It is unclear whether she used her RSN training professionally.

Crewelwork embroidery experienced a revival in the late 19th century and first decades of the 20th century, when it became a popular way to embellish home furnishings. Penson's sampler blends traditional crewelwork imagery with more creative, unusual motifs.

width: 59cm
height: 62cm

linen
wool thread
cotton thread
paper

Bullion knot